Obedience Training - HEELING

Training your dog to walk in the heel position is different from having your dog walk on a loose lead. When he is walking in the heel position you are requiring that his full attention is directed towards you. If you stop he stops; if you turn he turns; he should be watching your every move. While walking on a loose lead just requires that he is calmly walking at a comfortable pace (yours), is paying attention to you, and is not pulling your arm off. On a walk you may command a HEEL when crossing the street, passing people or dogs, or any situation that you feel you would like more control of his actions.

Training Your Dog To HEEL

HEEL position is when the dog's head is directly next to your left leg but not touching. His head should only be a few inches in front of your leg or behind your leg but in a position that you can always make solid eye connection with him and still see where you are headed.

Heeling can be a difficult command to master because it requires him to concentrate on only you. If you have a high energy dog that just wants to go check out everything this command will require you to have a lot of patience so like all commands it is best to start out with simple sessions that make it easy for him to succeed.

Steps

1. Start off with your dog sitting or standing next to you; both facing the same direction and adjust him so that your leg and his head are next to each other.

2. Adjust the lead or leash so that you are holding most of it in your outermost hand from him, leaving only a slack amount of lead from the center of your body to his collar. Hold the lead up near your waist. Also, hold the food reward with the same hand that you are holding the lead. You can use the hand closest to him to pat your leg to get his attention or for slight lead corrections.

3. Now say "Bailey" (your dog’s name) to get his attention and gain eye contact. Then immediately say "HEEL" and take a few steps forward starting with the leg closest to him.

• If he stays with you in heel position for a few steps praise and treat with enthusiasm.
• If he is not paying attention when you start moving you can "pat" your leg and again call "Bailey HEEL". Then when he keeps up with you for a few steps, praise and treat with enthusiasm.
• If he is still not paying attention, give a quick lead correction towards you, and repeat the HEEL command. Repeat until he is paying attention then praise and treat with enthusiasm AS SOON AS his attention is with you and not his surroundings.
• If he is with you but his attention is not 100% with you offer encouragement to keep his attention like "good boy" or say his name or say anything in an upbeat voice to gain his attention.
• ONLY praise and treat when he is in heel position so you are building that connection between his position to you and the command you are asking for.

4. Once you are getting his attention continue practicing by varying your steps from 2 steps to 5 steps before praising and add steps as you feel comfortable. It is important here that you are only treat rewarding the action of staying with you or heeling and not using the treat to lure or bribe him into the action of heeling.

Once you and your dog have reached a comfortable heel it will be time to add to the heeling difficulty by:

· Adjusting your walking pace; slowing down and speeding up
· Add right and left turns (90° turns)
· Add about turns (180° turns); left about and right about
· Practice in different locations with other people and animals around

Only introduce one variable at a time making it as easy as possible for him to succeed before you combine different elements. Always keep a positive outlook on the training or practice session and set a reasonable goal to be achieved in each session. Keep the session short and continue to encourage him and reward good action with enthusiasm. For the best results always have some play time right after a training session.

Obedience Training - STAND

The STAND command is a command that is very useful when you are taking your dog to the vet for an examination, you are bathing your dog, or your dog goes to the groomer. It is also a behavior that is used in the conformation or show ring as well as competitive obedience and rally events.

In the same manner as the previous commands were taught you should start off teaching the STAND command in a familiar environment with the fewest distractions possible so as to make it easy for your dog to succeed.

Training Your Dog to Stay

Start off training your dog the STAND command by having them do a SIT in the heel position, if you are still in the training phase of the SIT command make sure you reward and praise for her getting into the sit position. At this point the STAY should pretty much be automatic once you call for a SIT. Now from this position take one of her favorite training treats (in your outermost hand from her) holding it a few inches in front of her nose and slowly lure the treat away from her nose, parallel to the ground. While the treat is being lured away and as soon as you see her rear legs start to straighten (to stand) call the STAND command. As soon as she is in a full stand position praise and treat.

When teaching the STAND command try to stretch out the word stand (saying the word slowly) while the stand action is happening and then immediately praise and treat with enthusiasm when the action is complete. If she doesn’t want to follow the treat or she scoots to the treat in the sit position, try using your free hand to gently lift upwards from the belly to help her achieve the standing position.

The STAND command along with your hand movement is building that association with the action of standing. After repetition with a food treat in your hand, start varying the duration before you give the food reward but always give the verbal rewards. Mixing up the praise always keeps her guessing so eventually she will not need the food reward. Also, once she has the concept of the STAND command you can add the STAY command at the end of her getting into the stand position and your reward. The STAND/STAY is a great command to be used at the vet’s office for the examination and it will really impress the vet if the last time your dog was squirming like a worm and now she is standing still like a soldier.

Obedience Training - STAY

The next step after you have introduced and practiced the SIT and DOWN commands is to add in the STAY command. Again the word you use can differ from STAY, you could use WAIT or HOLD or whatever you feel most comfortable saying, you just want to pick one word and stick with that word. Truthfully, neither SIT nor DOWN commands work as you would like without the STAY command. At this point he has probably been doing the sit or down and bouncing back up like there are springs in his behind and on his belly. This is a great reaction because you’re asking no more of him and you’re having a party of treat rewards and verbal praise once the command has been accomplished, so you should expect bouncing up for joy. Eventually with practice and repetition your dog will just know when you say SIT or DOWN that you mean for him to stay in that position until released. I like to toss in a hand signal (sort of like a STOP hand signal) for stay to emphasize the STAY command. Hand signals can be used for all commands but when first learning the obedience commands (for you and your dog) it is best to stay as simple as possible.

Training the STAY command can be difficult and frustrating. It is not in his instincts to stay in one position. He would much rather be next to you or in front of you or following you around, so don’t get frustrated if he can’t sit still for a second or two or if you cannot walk a few feet away before he pops up to be with his pack leader. I believe in LOTS of praise when releasing a SIT/STAY or DOWN/STAY in the early stages of training theses commands so he knows he did something really good, and he’ll want to repeat that behavior again. Also, for the best success you want to start out slowly with simple, short stays with you being close by or next to him. Then you build up to a longer duration of time, further distances away and added distractions. Eventually, with repetition and practice you’ll be able to work up to being out of sight during a long stay.

Training Your Dog to Stay – Methods and Steps

General Overview

Start off with your dog in a relatively calm state, not all revved up for a play session as it will just cause you frustration, and place your dog in the position you wish to start practicing his stay. It is easiest to pick the position he is most comfortable in, some dogs prefer a sitting position over lying down, some are the opposite, and some dogs can be comfortable no matter what position. Once he is in the position you have requested (and you have treated and praised him for getting in this position) you want to take your open hand, palm facing him, and firmly say the STAY command while moving your hand toward his nose stopping an inch or two from the nose. Calmly wait a few seconds then use a release word like OK and reward with enthusiasm.

Method 1 - Front Position

While standing in front of and facing your dog firmly tell your dog to SIT (I’ll use sit here but any position can be used), reward with only verbal praise and pets for achieving this behavior then immediately call the STAY command with the hand signal. Wait a second or two, then release with OK, praise, and treat. The food reward is a high level reward so you want him to have to work for it, therefore you can use the treat to lure him into the SIT but only give it to him once you have released him from the STAY. Also try to keep eye contact during that one to two second pause.

Example: "Bailey, SIT" – "Good Boy" (verbal praise only) "STAY" with the hand signal – wait 1 to 2 seconds – "OK" "Good Boy" food reward with excited verbal praise.

As soon as you say OK and reward, it is alright if he breaks position because what you have asked of him is now over. If at any time he breaks from the stay before you release him, give a disapproving verbal cue like "NO" or a sound like "aah-aah" and place him right back in the sit/stay and repeat the STAY command with the hand signal. Do not repeat the SIT command with rewards, because then you will be rewarding him only for the SIT and not the STAY. After repeating the 1 to 2 second SIT/STAY a few times add another second or two between the STAY and the release, "OK", and praise. When practicing to add more duration to the STAY command you can use eye contact to gauge your dog’s concentration on the exercise. If he is keeping eye contact you can try to hold the stay longer; if his eyes start to stray you can release and praise so you can regain his attention.

Once the pause has reached at least a 5 second stay while you are directly in front of him you want to try a step back while performing the STAY command. He may jump right up and follow you, naturally following the leader but you want to make a disappointed verbal cue then place him back in the sit and repeat the STAY command. Just take it slowly and have patience. What this exercise is doing is building an association between the verbal STAY command along with the hand signal and that act of staying in one spot.

This method is easiest practiced when it is feeding time or you are going to let him outside or you are having him get into the car. All of these areas are places that would be for a short period of time.

Method 2 - Heel Position

While standing next to your dog, both facing the same direction, firmly tell your dog to SIT (again I’ll use sit here but you can use any position), reward with only verbal praise and pets for achieving this behavior, then immediately call the STAY command while using your outmost hand to come around with the hand signal. Wait a second or two then release with OK, praise, and treat.

This method is done similarly to the first method but he is next to you. This method is easiest practiced on a walk before crossing the street. Either method can be simply accomplished in a familiar environment like in your home or backyard. A good idea would be to practice while you are cooking dinner or making lunch or watching television. Once he seems comfortable add more time, distance, and distraction to the familiar environment before you move to a park or shopping center.

Another good way to practice and add fun is to play a game of hide and seek with him. This is a lot of fun and all you have to do is start out by placing him in one room and you go into the next room and call him or release him. He will be very excited to find you, and you can give lots of treats, verbal, and physical rewards. This game also adds the COME command or recall, so you are accomplishing two commands and building a great association between the commands and his actions.

Obedience Training - DOWN

After you have been introduced and have practiced the SIT command, the next command to teach your dog is the DOWN command. You don't have to have the SIT command mastered but your dog should have a basic understanding of what you are asking of her. This is because the DOWN command is built off of the SIT command. These two commands are the basic ingredients to a dog’s whole obedience training program. Building off of these two foundation commands a dog will be able to accomplish many other more advanced commands and skills. Also these two commands will help establish you as the pack (or family) leader and should create a healthier happier relationship with your dog.

If you have a submissive dog the DOWN command should be more easy to accomplish because a submissive dog's instincts tells her to get as low as possible to "submit" to the more dominate dog or person. A dominate dog may resist laying down because this position is more vulnerable to her making it an uncomfortable and stressful position, especially since when you are standing tall over her when she is laying down. Either way you want to be a confident leader in your relationship with your dog so she will respect your authority. For the submissive dog your confidence will relay to her that she can trust your judgment and you will keep her safe from harm. For the dominate dog it will show her that she can relax and put down her guard because you are the "Alpha" and have everything under control.

The DOWN command is a very useful command that can be used for and in many different situations. Requesting your dog do a down when small children or elderly people are around helps make your dog’s presence not overwhelming for them. Checking out or waiting in the lobby at the vet's office is a good place to ask your dog to lay down by your feet. If you have visitors over your home or you and your dog are visitors at someone else’s home asking for a down ensures your dog is a good hostess or guest. In most situations you would call the DOWN command to restrict and control your dog’s movement or place her out of a harmful or stressful situation. Although in all cases the down is combined with a STAY or WAIT command to make the down more effective.

General guidelines for teaching the DOWN command are that you start your training by making your dog practice a down as simple, easy (familiar comfortable environment), and quick as possible (time the down is held in place). Be consistent with your verbal command; if you use the word "down" always use the word "down". Some people use the word "lay" or "drop", just pick a word that you are comfortable with and just that one all the time. Once she has the concept of what you are asking then increase the difficultly. This can be done by increasing the length of time in a down (combined with the STAY or WAIT). At first the down should be rewarded as soon as she gets all the way down to the floor, then increase the time between when the down is complete and when the reward is given. Move to different locations in your house or yard, and then in public places with a small number of distractions, then increased distractions. Distractions can be bouncing a ball while she is lying down or scattering food around her. It could be the amount of people and vehicle traffic in a public place or practicing outside the fence at a dog park. The idea behind the different locations, length of time, and distraction training is that the DOWN you put her in should be such a strong command to your dog that nothing else matters until you release her to get up. The objective with practicing the DOWN command with so many variables is that you never know when or what conditions you might need to get quick control and ask your dog to lie down and be out of the way.

Training Your Dog To DOWN - Methods and Steps

DOWN position is when the dog's belly is touching (or close to) the ground with her front legs extended out in front.

Method 1 - Front Position

Ask your dog to SIT (following Method 2 - Front Position, previous post). Once she is in the sitting position (remember to praise for the SIT) and her leash in the one of your hands with a tasty soft treat in other hand, you can start training the DOWN command. Start with holding the treat a few inches in front of her nose and move your treat hand in a motion that is down towards the ground and towards you (almost like an arc) at the same time saying DOWN. She should follow the treat with her head, keeping her backside stationary therefore drawing her body to the ground. As soon as her body hits the floor with her legs stretched out front, treat and praise with enthusiasm "Good down...good girl". Repeat this over and over again so that your dog associates the DOWN command with the action of lying down. Soon enough the hand motion or the treat will not be needed and your verbal command will be all that is required to get your dog to lay down. Also with plenty of repetition your dog will be able to go directly from a standing position to a down position without sitting.



Your dog might not want to lie down and just stay in a sitting position or she may follow the treat with her head but her behind might then go up like in a "play bow position". If your dog refuses to lie down by remaining in a sitting position you can try securing the leash by standing or kneeling on it (keeping the leash taut) and with your free hand slowly scoop the front legs out towards the front of her while moving the treat in the downward arc and saying the DOWN command at the same time, remember to treat and praise with enthusiasm once she is in the down position.

If she does the opposite by going into the "play bow position" you can again secure the leash under your foot or knee then place your free hand over the dogs behind but not touching the dog. Once you start luring her with your treat hand and the behind comes up to meet your hand you came lightly press down (the first time her rear hits your hand it may startle her) keeping her whole body in the down position, again remember to treat and praise once she is in the down position.

Method 2 - Heel Position

With your dog sitting (following Method 2 - Heel Position, previous post) next to you use the hand closest to the dog by treat luring your dog into the down position. You can either be in a standing or kneeling position when you are introducing this Method. From either position you want to take the treat, again from a few inches in front of her nose, in a downward outward arc from her, making sure to say the DOWN command as you’re luring her and rewarding once the command is completed.



If she is not cooperating by following the treat down to the floor you can try scooting her front legs out in front of her with the arm closest to her while saying DOWN then reward and praise as soon as the down is completed. Another technique is to string the leash tautly under the knee or the foot closest to her and over to the hand that is farthest from the dog. Then with the hand closest to the dog lure the treat down and away from the front of her, with your leash hand gently pull on the leash therefore making her head be pulled down to the floor, and say the DOWN command at the same time. Once she is in the down position show her how happy you are that she is down through enthusiastic praise and the treat reward.

You want to be very excited and happy with your praise - lots of “good girl” or “good boy”. I always think of it as throwing a little party for a job well done. You may think you look or are acting a little silly but your dog thrives on attention and all this positive attention will help your dog learn quickly and strengthen the bond you have with your dog. After lots of repetition with positive reinforcement your dog will start responding more quickly to your verbal commands without the treat rewards.

Obedience Training: SIT

Teaching a dog the SIT command is a good place to start with obedience training. It's an easy command that any dog should be able to master in a short period of time. The SIT command is a foundation command in obedience training and all other commands will build from this foundation.

The SIT command can be taught to any age of dog, from a new puppy to an older adopted dog. Before you start training any dog any commands you must make sure that the dog is comfortable around you - lets you touch him, gives you his attention, etc. You never want to push a new dog early in your relationship with the dog. Pushing a dog to do something before he is comfortable with you could lead to him taking longer to trust you or worse yet biting you. All dogs are different and they progress at different rates. A puppy could start right as soon as he arrives home but an adult adopted dog will need time to adjust to his new environment and new people so he may need a week or a month before he is comfortable with you enough to start training.

General Rules When Training

• Keep your training sessions short, five to fifteen minutes is plenty to begin.


• Any time is a good time to practice. You don't have to have a time set aside every day (example - 4:30 every day), you can be watching TV and practice during commercials.


• Incorporate the training into your daily routine. Get your dog to sit before feeding time, before you leave the house for a walk, at every corner before you cross the street, or before you throw a toy during a game of fetch. When applied in this manner obedience training will be fun in your dog's mind, and rewarding.


• Make the command perfectly clear and be consistent about the command that you use. Example, don't use SIT and SIT DOWN when you want a sit. People may know you are asking for them to sit no matter which you use but to a dog SIT DOWN is two different commands, a SIT and a DOWN.


• Make learning the command easy for your dog to succeed. Start in a less stressful environment with the fewest distractions possible. Once the command is accomplished with ease then do it in different locations with different levels of distractions and a longer duration for him to hold the command.


• Make training your dog to sit fun and exciting. Be animated about what you are trying to teach your dog and he will react with enthusiasm. Don't make practicing training feel like a chore, neither you nor your dog will benefit from the session.


• If you are in a bad mood DON'T have a training session. You will have less patience and nothing good will come from that session.


• Training sessions should be full of energy, consistent repetition, and positive reinforcement.


• Don't expect your dog to learn the first time or the second time. Repetition and consistency throughout your dog's life is the key to success.


• Start training with food rewards along with verbal and physical praise then gradually faze out the food rewards. You don't want the dog constantly looking for the food reward and it will be more exciting for him if he gets a food treat reward every now and then.

Training Your Dog To Sit -Methods and Steps

Method 1

This is great for young puppies. Young puppies are easy to work with because they are little and easy to mold into the sit position. When you have a new puppy you are constantly watching him anyway for signs he has to go potty and because he just does the cutest things, so when you see him start to sit you can call out the sit command and when his behind hits the floor you can give him praise, "good dog" and pets. In your dog's mind you are building an association between your verbal SIT command and the act of him sitting. Most puppies will make the connection between his action and getting rewarded for that action. He may even just walk up to you and sit looking to get rewarded for the action. It is cute, but for the puppy to associate the command SIT with the action, make him get up and walk a bit then call the command for him to sit. Before you know it every time you ask for a sit he will understand the command and respond accordingly. The puppy will think "Seriously I get an excited reaction (praise) and a treat for this, sweet."

Method 2 - Front Position

This next method is for older puppies and adult dogs of any age. While you have your dog on leash either direct him to the front of you or adjust your body so that you are facing him. With your dog in a standing position hold the leash with one hand and a small moist treat in the other hand and guide the treat from his nose level up over the head keeping the treat a few inches above the head. The dog should follow the smell of the treat and your hand at the same time his rear end will be lowering. Once you see the rear going down say the SIT command clearly and firmly and as soon as his behind hits the ground treat and praise with enthusiasm.

The dog might feel the need to back up to follow the treat or jump up to the treat while it is going over his head and this could be because the treat is too far away from the dog's nose, you are moving the treat too quickly from his nose over his head, or the treat is traveling too far over the head. To correct this problem, experiment with the distance you are holding the treat from the dog's head to find the best position, also hold the leash taut above the dog's head with your leash hand while your other hand is moving the treat over the dog's head. This should restrict the body from moving while the head is following the treat, remember to use the SIT command as soon as the rear end is going down towards the floor and treat and praise as soon as the behind hits the floor. Repeat these steps until the dog starts sitting without backing up or jumping; then just use the hand movement with the treat, the SIT command, and reward once the command is complete. Eventually the verbal command will be all you need to accomplish what you want. Remember that with practice the SIT command will just come naturally and the only reward the dog will need is verbal praise for a job well done.

Method 2 - Heel Position

The Heel position refers to you and your dog standing side by side, your leg and his head almost in line with each other. In the show ring and in the competitive obedience ring the dog is located on the left side of the handler, therefore I will refer to the dog being on the left in this method.

With your dog in a standing position on your left, the leash in your right (holding the leash taut and basically straight up and above the collar), and the treat in your left hand, take the treat from in front of the dog's nose and up over the dog's head as instructed above in Method 2 -Front Position while lightly pulling up with the leash and use the SIT command clearly and firmly as soon as the rear is lowering to the ground. When the behind hits the ground, treat and praise with enthusiasm.
Again the dog might feel the need to back up to follow the treat or jump up to the treat while it is going over his head. Follow the above instructions to correct the problem and/or you could try to take your leg closest to the dog and place it directly behind the dog's hind legs, kind of a stopping block for him from backing up, then repeat the steps to achieve the SIT command.

Another technique to try if neither way is working is without using a treat reward apply pressure downward over the dog's hips. Again with the dog standing in the heel position on your left and the leash in your right (holding the leash taut and basically straight up and above the collar) say the SIT command clearly and firmly while lightly pulling up with the leash (that is in your right hand) and using your left arm applying light pressure over the rear of the dog. Once the behind hits the ground treat and praise with enthusiasm. Within no time at all you won't need to do any little tricks like the foot block or press down on the rear or apply upward pressure on the leash to get the dog to follow the SIT command, he will follow the command just because he is receiving attention and praise from you.

A benefit of training a dog the SIT command is that it gives you an option to change a bad behavior. You may have a wonderful friendly dog that just loves people but the dog greets every visitor to your house by jumping up on them - not the best way to say hello especially if they are not exactly dog people. Having your dog sit to greet your visitors when they enter your home is a very pleasant way to say hello. You can first start off by teaching the SIT command as instructed in Method 2 - Heel position, then ask family members or friends to come to the front door and repeat the SIT command when your visitors enter. Practice this for a little while then ask your visitor to ask your dog to sit when entering your house. This accomplishment may take some time, commitment, consistency, and patience but soon enough your dog will be nicely greeting your visitors off leash.

Another benefit to the SIT command is when it is used at feeding times. Instead of having your dog run around like a maniac while you are preparing his food you can combine the SIT command with a STAY or WAIT command (later post) so you can work in peace.

Bailey

Age: 9

Birthday: September 16, 1999
Astrological Sign: Virgo
Element: Earth
Zodiac Year: Rabbit


I got Bailey, then Nanook, around September 16th of 1999. He was a cute little Rottweiler that my step-mother's niece gave up because they found out the were having another baby and Bailey might not be good with a new born baby (I agree whole heartedly that no dog should be left unattended with a baby or toddler and all interaction should be under proper supervision BUT Bailey LOVES children and he is very good with them ~ I will save this complete rant for a later post). I was looking at getting a dog, possibly a Rhodesian Ridgeback, but I wasn't going to pass up an opportunity to get a dog so I took Bailey.


I had never had a dog of my own so having Bailey was a learning experience, having a hard-headed Rottweiler was a major learning experience. My family had always had a dog but they never put any time into training whatever dog they had (but to go outside to potty) so I thought having a dog was really just all fun ~ OH was I wrong!

At first I was just so happy to finally have my own dog that I really put little into training him. I taught him the basic sit, down, and come; but there was very little walking on a lead and the only socialization I did was with my dad's Golden, Morgan and my friend JJ's Husky, Nanook (see why I changed his name ~ plus a Rotti shouldn't be named after the Mal in "The Lost Boys" movie).


When I moved from my apartment to my friend's house I had to crate train Bailey and he had to learned an invisible fence so he could be free in the 3/4 of an acre yard to run and play with his best friend Nanook. The crate training was easy and he loved being in there. I was even told he would just chill in there when I was not home. The invisible fence on the other hand was creating bad habits. Since we lived on a road that was frequently used for a local bicycle race, Bailey and Nanook would chase any bikers or joggers up and down the property line. Little did I know this game of chase was creating a headache for us later in life when we would encounter either a biker or a jogger while on a walk or in a park. So we always had to keep a fast eye for bikers and jogger, which didn't give us the peaceful walk we would want. Although he is much better now after a lot of training and desensitizing, he still likes to give a nice woo woo woo at some of them. Another issue with having a large yard is that I didn't take Bailey out to play with others and that lead to his lacks of social skills. Life lessons ~ we all learn them. Also with him being a Rotti and all the judging people do with the breed, made me tense therefore Bailey would pick up on my tenseness and would react, it was just a vicious cycle of bad vibes that I had to get over.


It wasn't till Bailey was about 5 that we started training him in formal classes and we started undoing his bad habits. He is a Rotti (we even had him DNA tested and he is majority Rotti with a trace of Dobi). His first class was really to just get him more social interaction with other dogs. Unfortunately that class was a bust because the trainer seemed to be afraid of Bailey and the class had no doggie social interaction time, which is what Bailey really needed since he had all the basics commands down, Carrie and I had been previously working on all of the basics and Bailey knew them with ease, also he is a Rotti he'll do whatever I say in a snap fashion (which I love). I had stressed to the trainer that Bailey knew the basics and what we needed was help in the socialization area. What we learned from that class is that we needed to seek out a trainer that worked with strong working breeds.


Carrie had taken Ananya (you'll meet her later) to another trainer and although it was a pretty good class, it wasn't the right class for Bailey ~ more for Goldens, Labs, Weimies, etc., so the search went on for a good trainer. Finally Carrie found a trainer that understood the Guarding type breeds and after one class we knew we had the right one. Bailey's attitude changed almost right away when we had the correct training tools to address his behavior around other dogs. So much that we decided to start fostering Sibes (that is how Magnum, Blue and Meeko came to join our family).

It is no secret that Bailey is my favorite (I even have his paw, actual size, tattooed on my right forearm). He has taught me so much about dogs and training and given me more confidence and taught me patience. My favorite quote is by Roger Caras:


"Dogs are not our whole life, but they make our lives whole."

I rescued a human today.

I rescued a human today. Her eyes met mine as she walkeddown the corridor peering apprehensively into the kennels. Ifelt her need instantly and knew I had to help her. I waggedmy tail, not too exuberantly, so she wouldn't be afraid.

As she stopped at my kennel I blocked her view from a littleaccident I had in the back of my cage. I didn't want her toknow that I hadn't been walked today.Sometimes the shelter keepers get too busy and I didn't wanther to think poorly of them.

As she read my kennel card I hoped that she wouldn't feelsad about my past. I only have the future to look forward toand want to make a difference in someone's life. She gotdown on her knees and made little kissy sounds at me.I shoved my shoulder and side of my head up against the barsto comfort her. Gentle fingertips caressed my neck; she was desperate for companionship. A tear fell down her cheek and I raised mypaw to assure her that all would bewell. Soon my kennel door opened and her smile was so brightthat I instantly jumped into her arms. I would promise tokeep her safe. I would promise to always be by her side. Iwould promise to do everything I could to seethat radiant smile and sparkle in her eyes. I was sofortunate that she came down my corridor. So many more areout there who haven't walked the corridors. So many more tobe saved. At least I could save one.

I rescued a human today.

Author Unknown